Moka babyserker, Story of a 5 inches eater 

If you’re lucky enough to still have all your frames intact, I bet you like to upgrade them with some more and more powerful setup. Last rainy weekend, I’ve built a couple of frames and I’ve also refreshed two others racers of mine. I decided to use some quite special motorizations. My Moka Babyserker 180 and its F30 1806 2800 kv was a little monster already. And the same frame exists with 5 inches arms. So I decided to focus on the 4 inches version and I changed the 1806 for 2204 3050 kv. Since DJI sent us their new ESC, I ve mounted their Takyons on the Babyserker. But that’s another story I’ll tell you about later. For now, let’s review this frame with 4 inches props and discover if a 180 can beat a 210. 

Revelation : the Moka Babyserker 4 inches, 2204 3050 kv

4 inches frames are no more trendy. That’s too bad. But I assume it won’t last. Once the super tiny frames tendency is over, we’ll maybe come back to biggest classes. But if you think a 4 inches quad is not able to fry a 5 inches one, the Babyserker will make your mind change. I’ve longly study all the motors on the market and the fact I’m in charge of t FPV Passion helped a lot. During my researches, I met the Pyroflip 2204 3050 kv. And I said to myself : «  That could be the ones for a demoniac 4 inches setup ! « 

Here are the components I’ve choose :

  • 2204 3050 KV Pyroflip  
  • DAL 4045 BN 
  • ESC DYS 20 A XM
  • 1500 mAh 75 C
  • Kombini Furious
  • Weight : 280 g

Today, I’m going to review this particular machine. Thanks to my job, I own a lot of racers. But my Babyserker is my favorite. The low profile style, the little size, the different positions of the arms… I like everything in my baby ! At the top of my loving list, there is : 

The motorization

The 2204 3050 kv quartet is a setup you won’t meet very often. When the first 2204 2300 kv appeared, I was not convinced by the duo they formed with 4045 props. At this time, the 4045 x 3 were not available yet. And the frames were heavier.

Today, the choice is larger. Pyroflip proposes those motors ( despite they are no more available on their site ). The price is reasonable and the light weight is perfect for 4 inches. Epic RC has also released some 2800 or 3200 kv 2204

With 4045 BN. source : Mini quad Bench


Too much props ? Or not enough ?

At the beginning, I was not sure about the results I could obtain with 4045 BN props. I had good feelings with them and the F30 2800 kv, so I tried with the same ones. It went well. Very well indeed. But I also tried all the following ones : 

  1. DAL 4045 BN two blades
  2. DAL 4045 BN three blades
  3. DAL 4045 BN three blades V2
  4. DAL 4045 regular
  5. 4040 X 3 HQ
  6. 4040 x 4 DAL and HQ
  7. Two blades 4040 HQ
 Les meilleures selon moi
  1. The most logical ones to try, after the 4045 BN, were the 4045 x 3 BN. ( V1 ).  Nothing good went out of this setup. On the contrary, the Babyserker turned into a lazy animal. Something like a desevolved Pokemon
  2. The 3 x 4045 regular and the 4045 V2 BN ones were not bad but not good neither.  
  3. The 3 x 4040 were at this moment the very best result I could get with 3050 kv. They’re the same ones than the 4 x 4040 DAL wich are not better despite the extra blade. The consumption is worth than ever and the extra thrust you get does not worth the amount of energy it cost to my lipo and it’s lifetime.
  4. The 4040 two blades has the opposite side effect : not enough power despite a better RPM.

Conclusion about props : The really good results I got with the 3 x 4040 HQ are quite logical. The people who saw the Baby 4 inches fly were very amazed. Especially with a 1500 mAh 4S 75 C setup. Of course, the consumed Amps are strictly related to the kv. That’s why a 1500 mAh 75 C or a 1300 mAh 95 C are necessary. 

The kv, a major consumption factor

Except for fpv Racing, the 1300 mAh are not enough here, as I’ve just told you. Even on a 4 inches configuration, the 3050 kv need more C or a bigger capacity. The 1300 75 C are doing well but not as well as the the 1300 95 C or the 1500 75 C. The second two last ones are heavier than 1300 75 C but thanks to the extra amount of power, you won’t feel it. 

The 1500 Infinity

Some says that it is important to give a break in period for new lipos. Some others affirm the newer they are, the best they give. Without a 30 000 $ workbench, that is impossible to know, I guess. This is an endless debat anyway. 

The Infinity graphene are good. They’re new but they were not well balanced when I received them : 3,8 – 3.9 – 3.7 and 3.8 v.  

Flight behaviour and PID

Image associée

The very first flight was a little shaky at full throttle. I raised the P and increase the D a little bit. To be honest, I asked to a friend of mine who is an expert. He did well. 

After that, I found back the same feeling I had with the old 1806 setup. With much more power, for sure ! The weight is now around 280 grams so the quad still is very handy. It has some inertia but that is better for freestyling. The acceleration is amazing. I fly with 1.20 ( rc rate ) and my expo is quite low. The final rotation speed is about 950 ° / sec.

The global inertia is in the average according to the battery size. I mean not too much or not too light. It also depends from the lipo you care obviously. My skill level are not bad but I won’t match with Justice FPV nor Skitzo

Flying my baby

The 3050 kv and the 3 x 4040 BN are doing great. The lipos really have to be 1500 70 C at least. In fact, that is still not enough considering the lifetime of a lipo wich provides 105 A continuously to a setup wich needs 110 / 120 A ( at full throttle ). There is no lipo able to remain in good health for 200 charging cycles in those conditions. At least, if you use a 1550 95 C, you power up your machine with 147,5 A so the lifetime shoulb be increased. In the other hand, the more C you have, the most fragile the lipo chemistry is. 

A few extra grams but 40 more Amps !  

The difference does exist. The weight could be a problem for a very sharp racing flight but you can use some 1300 75 C as well. 123 A are
 enough to obtain a good compromise and a well balanced power / consumption ratio.


 The frame

The Moka Babyserker is a durable frame. I fly it since 6 months and I did not break anything. Not event a spacer. In any case, the arms are replaceable and that is better to avoid vibrations. Unybodies are vibrations vectors, they drive the noise directly to the heart of the quad : the FC and its gyro. 


The 180 and the 210 share the same body. That is very easy to swap from 4 to 5 inches arms since the body is commun in both cases.  The carbon thickness is 1.5 mm on top and on bottom plates wich are also identical in shapes. Less to do more, that’s Moka policy. warranty-1-year


  • After dozens of dozens of crashes, no damages are to be reported. Anyway the first year is warranted at Moka’s online shop.
  •  The FPV camera is well protected but we would have appreciated more tilt. You won’t install a HS1177 style camera neither, the space is too tight. But the Runcam Owl fits perfectly and the Fatshark 700 as well. Choose carefully the FOV in any case. 
  • You can choose 3 or 4 mm arms for the 180. The 210 will automatically come in 4 mm. 
  • The 7 spacers are another warranty to get a super durable racer. The screws are long enough to solidify the spacers. In fact, the screws will broke in first. I can assure this. 

 A perfect balance ? 

A real pic with a real pen
In my real place

Final Weight

280 grams is a very light weight for a 180. Especially for such high kv. I think it is not a good idea to use high kv on heavy frames. More weight needs more torque. 2300 and 2600 kv are the two most common kv we finally meet those days. 

Naked, the Babyserker 180 is 66 grams. 3D printed pieces are available, the bumpers are useful but the side plates are dispensable in my opinion. Beside this, those pieces fit side XT60 PDB only. It’s better to use an FC / PDB anyway. Maybe Moka should propose an optional print. The camera is quite tilted but if you want to increase the inclination, you’ll have to find your own way or change the lens. Or even to recut the top plate.

Another holder is given with the frame, plus this 3D print

The build

There are no special difficulties here, the build is not tricky. Every components comes to its dedicated place. A few variations are possible, like 4 in 1 ESC. Beware to stay low in the way you stack the FC and the 4 in 1. The Tempest motolabs and its flat bottom could be a good idea.  

You won’t need more than 2 hours to build your baby. Maybe less if you’re a good builder. It tooks me 24 h ( I like to take my time, watch TV and cook sausages during my builds ).

The VTX owns its place near the tail of the frame. If you own an UFL connector VTX, screw the antenna above the top plate, behind the lipo. 

I choose a good old FX 795T with a deported antenna and a special FPV omni directionnal antenna that a friend of mine build and sell here

I own several of those antennas on several quads, it has not been broken yet. 

Several positions for the arms

This is not the choice I made but you can mount the arms quite the same way it is possible to do on the Moka Simplex.

The mirror frame, in french. Clic N’ Translate !

 What is the effect on flight behaviour ? That is a question you should ask to Gab707. He’s been flewing the Moka Simplex for months. 

And now…

No, the Babyserker is not perfect. Any frame is. The main upgrade I see would have been to use higher spacers in order to get more tilt for the FPV camera. But this is something you can do yourself. You’ll maybe have to modify the camera holder if you do so.

I don’t really see any other things. Honestly, there is much more good things than bad ones to say here. I did not have a huge crash, it would have been interesting to examine the reaction of the frame. 

  • We want more tilt ! 
  • Where is the Session or Runcam HD holder ? 
  • Only FC / PDB setup

I must confess that I like Moka‘s work. I own the Foldable, the Simplex and two Babyserkers. Soon, one of our team member will test the Moka Jadina and its vertical arms. 

It is important to say the future is certainly in the frames which let pilots choose the size of the arms without having to change anything else than the motors. I mean if you insert the whole electronic in the top ( FPV + FC + ESC ) of the machine, it’s easier to swap from 4 to or 6 inches arms. This is also a more economic way to a spare quad. 

  • One main frame, several arms
  • homogeneous setups
  • Easier repairs
  • Swap it on the field

Reading this review, you certainly understood that I like my Babyserker. But don’t confound the fact I like it with being too nice with this frame. I bought it, this is not a frame Moka sent us for the review. 

A last thing : Please, excuse my poor english ! 

Props eater ! 
180 and 210



Useful links


  1. Babyserker 180, 3 mm arms : 44 USD
  2. Babyserker 180, 4 mm arms : 48 USD
  3. Babyserker 210, 4 mm arms : 56 USD

Belleville stop, Canada


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